Alfie Ovenden

Specialising in Printed textiles. Experience working with, screen processing and colour matching, knowledge of dying materials and processes.

Final Project

Papilio

“PAPILIO”, is a Spring/ Summer fashion Couture collection that encapsulates the fragility of life.  The symbolic nature of a butterfly is meant to connote new beginnings, transformation, renewal and change. The fluidity of the project explores the metamorphosis of Butterflies, encapsulating the motions of their life span, from the chrysalis to their end of life.

Research

At the start of the project I visited a series of museums and Sanctuaries that featured butterfly specimens. From the Sanctuaries I was able to collect some specimens for my project which enabled me to construct the initial starting point for drawings and development.

Designer influences such as Robert Wan and his debut 2023 couture line featuring a burnt wedding dress has heavily influenced my materials and processes for this collection working with a variety of different medias to construct more unique and striking garment pieces. Macro photography captured by Petar Sabol, capturing an extreme close up of the specimens opened new avenues of creative flare.

Processes

Materials such as, Silk, Organza, and Copper are used to create a contrast of matte and shiny surfaces, this helps to create depth and fluidity throughout. Process’s that I have undertaken and experimented with during this project involve, printed flock onto organza, a 3 layered registration vat print onto silk and copper Verdigris which has been previously screen-printed using butter.

To sustain a better future, for this collection the materials sourced have been donated deadstock materials. Other sustainable forms and methods to reduce waste have been to cut what is necessary and to test on scrap pieces of fabric.

Revival

Silk chiffon, Donated material. 700 x 150 cm – Two layer, Colour VAT process.

Conclusion

The collection is a symbolic representation of life, being viewed through the guise of butterflies. Exploring new forms and ideas that take on the concept of life and death harnessing the vibrant colours of life being partnered with a series of neutral tones to enhance the portrayal of existence.

Development

Initial drawings and paintings. These were inspired by the photography that I had taken at the Butterfly sanctuary at the very start of the project.

I took it upon myself to learn how to Taxidermy butterfly specimens. The Taxidermy featured within my work has been created by myself.

Each specimen was collected with permission and each one had died naturally before preserving them into frames.

Cyanotypes were also a great part of this project, to explore different methods of creating prints and drawings. Anna Atkins has been the inspiration behind my cyanotype construction.

As well as looking at the specimens as a whole I wanted to go further by using a microscope to see the wing patterns that aren’t apparent to the eye. This has allowed me to have more of an understanding with how the wings of a butterfly function as well as look under a microscope.

Using the photocopier to create distorted artworks that can be later translated into statement or repeat prints for the collection.

Through a vast range of testing I found Printing butter onto copper creates a barrier when creating a patina, Verdigris. With this the copper changes colour and the butter leaves the copper with the desired print.

Achievements

  • Course Representative
  • Student Ambassador

Placements

Imogen Heath, Interiors – Working with a small business specializing within digital bespoke printed textiles  for interiors. Insight and knowledge of how the business runs throughout the day. Improving skills such as overlocking, fabric knowledge and fabric quality.

Again & Again, Fashion – Learning all techniques/ forms of screen printing. Creating designs for pre-loved garments and giving them a new lease of life. Using CAD and photoshop to tidy photoshoot imagery. Photographer for one of their collections.

Visionary Thinkers

Visionary Creators

Visionary Makers